"Who can entertain a doubt that some kinds of wine are more agreeable to the palate than others or that even out of the same fermentor, occasionally, there are produced wines that are by no means of equal goodness, whether it is that it is owing to the cask or to some other fortuitous circumstance. It is the land and the soil that is of primary importance, and not the grape. It is quite superfluous to attempt to ennumerate all the varieties of every kind, seeing that the same vine, transplanted to several places is productive of features and characteristics of quite opposite nature."

No, this is not a quote pulled from a Wine Spectator article on the latest cutting-edge winemaker from California’s central coast, but is sourced from a man who enjoyed wearing dresses and liked to lounge around at supper wearing leaves in his hair. Think vintage 69 A.D. The quote is the Roman historian, Pliny the Elder going on about his private reserve Falernian and his estate bottled Setinum wines. Humbled now by this archival evidence that there is very little originality left in life, any temptation this writer may feel to write a story blowing hard and hot about the innovative and extreme measures we take to produce the greatest wine ever, has been effectively squelched. Suffice to say, it is my responsibility each year to use every means possible to bring a fruit-full and authentic wine experience to your glass. My success in realizing this responsibility will be reflected in your level of support.

Harrington is now releasing five 2005 Pinot Noir wines from five distinct California appellations. The first offering is from the Brosseau Vineyard, Chalone in Monterey. While this wine is Harrington's second wine made from the Brosseau vineyard, it is the first vintage made entirely from a little known clone of Pinot Noir, the Colmar 538 clone. The limestone soils of the Chalone appellation are definitely providing a hospitable home to this new clone, as this wine's depth and intensity make evident. Also offered is the second vintage from a new Sonoma Coast appellation vineyard, Gap's Crown. This wine is a dark, full-bodied expression of Pinot Noir, rich and chocolaty. The Iund Vineyard in Carneros makes another appearance in 2005 and unpacks all the usual earthy, animale experiences Carneros Pinot lovers have come to expect. The Maurice Galante Vineyard in the Russian River's sub-appellation of Green Valley was the sole source of fruit for the Harrington 2005 Russian River Valley wine. This vineyard's fruit produced a lively wine with structure, delicacy and vivid berry fruit flavors. Finally, a very small amount of wine was produced from the Wiley Vineyard located in the 'deep end' of the Anderson Valley. A portion of the Wiley vineyard was planted in the 70's and we are very lucky to receive fruit from these older Pommard clones. These older Wiley vines are noted for producing wines with beguiling aromatics and great depth.

These wines were produced in an artisinal manner in which all production decisions, the majority of labor performed and the ownership of the means of production are under the control of one person. Production limits are an important factor in the quality equation. Therefore, the winery will never attempt to produce more wine than would compromise the goal of creating, singlehandedly, a superior quality Pinot Noir.

Finally, if we can agree that a bottle of wine is a cutural artifact, then we must remember one primary aspect of any cutural artifact is it's ability to act as a mirror. As we experience and evaluate a wine, our judgements reflect the depth of understanding that we, as individuals, have reached. So, be aware, as you judge the wine before you, this very wine is also judging you. But let's let Pliny have the last word on the subject "Let each person, therefore, constitute himself his own judge as to which kind of wine it is that occupies pre-eminence".